Questions:
What is an HVAC system, versus a heating and cooling system?
What can I do to help my system running more efficiently?
How much should I put back my heat or air conditioning while I’m gone during the day?
I’ve heard setting a programmable thermostat back during the day does not save on energy costs because you use at least as much energy as you’ve saved getting your house back up to the desired temperature. Is this true?
How often should I have my HVAC system checked?
What do I do if my Thermostat screen is blank?
I have water coming out of a PVC line outside (normally above a window). What is going on?
My A/C system is blowing air inside (not really cold), but no power to the outside unit, is there anything I can do to try and solve the problem?
Are there different types of filters for my HVAC system?
How often should I replace my filters?
How do I check for a dirty evaporator coil?
How do I clean my condenser (outside) coils?
What causes indoor air quality problems?
What is SEER? EER? HSPF?
Where are the biggest air leaks in my home?
Where are the big air leaks in my attic?
Should I get my air ducts cleaned?
Does it help to close vents in rooms not being used during the day?
Why is the room over my garage hotter/colder than other rooms in the house?
How do you size the air conditioning for the house?
Answers:
What is an HVAC system, versus a heating and cooling system?
HVAC stands for Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning. HVAC is the full array of services an HVAC contractor offers, including ventilation, heating and cooling of your home. HVAC is an acronym for your heating and cooling system, so basically they mean the same thing.
What can I do to help keep my system running more efficiently?
Change the filters regularly (at least once a month during peak usage), keep your condenser coil clean, use fans throughout the home to circulate airflow, and keep your thermostat around 76°-78° on summer and 68°-69° in winter. Also, you can install a programmable thermostat (if you have not installed one already). A programmable thermostat will allow you to set your t-stat for different temperatures for different times of the day. This allows you to save money on your energy bills without having to remember to change the t-stat every time you go to work or out for the day.
How much should I put back my heat or air conditioning while I’m gone during the day?
There are no hard-and-fast rules - - your set-backs largely depend on your own comfort, your home’s insulation, the type of heating and cooling system you have, and the climate. On average, for every degree you set back your thermostat, you can save 3% on your energy bill. Through proper use of a programmable thermostat (using the 4 pre-programmed settings) you can save about $180* every year in energy costs for a typical, single-family home. From the Energy Star Website.
I’ve heard setting a programmable thermostat back during the day does not save on energy costs because you use at least as much energy as you’ve saved getting your house back up to the desired temperature. Is this true?
It is a common misconception that it takes more energy to heat up a cold house than it does to keep a house warm all the time. Turning down the thermostat will always save energy, as will turning up the air conditioner temperature setting. Heat moves from hot to cold, and the rate of heat transfer increases with greater temperature differences between inside and out. Smaller temperature differences between your house and outside generally means you’ll lose less heat (or air conditioning) from inside the house to the outside. Therefore, you will save energy by only heating or cooling as much as necessary, for the occupants and time of day.
If your concern is comfort, or having to wait for your house to heat up or cool down after you get home, invest in a programmable thermostat – it can begin to heat or cool your home 30-60 minutes before you get home, so the temperature is just right when you arrive. Through proper use of a programmable thermostat (using the 4 pre-programmed settings) you can save about $180* every year in energy costs for a typical, single-family home. Learn more at energystar.gov/pts.
*The $180 savings assumes an 8 hour daytime setback and a 10 hour nighttime setback of 8 degrees F in winter and 4 degrees F in summer. From the Energy Star Website.
How often should I have my HVAC system checked?
We recommend servicing your HVAC system twice every year, once for your air conditioning (Spring check) and once for your heating system (Fall check). The A/C is normally checked in the Spring (March or April in Houston), to make sure your system is in the best operating condition for the brutal summer months. Although we think more about air conditioning than heat here in Houston, the heat check is very important. If there is a crack in the heat exchanger, the equipment could emit toxic gasses, specifically Carbon Monoxide. Carbon Monoxide is obviously a very dangerous gas to have in your home, so a heat check is always recommended.
What do I do if my Thermostat screen is blank?
A blank thermostat screen can mean several things. The batteries should be the 1st thing you check. It is the easiest fix. If that does not solve the issue, you should contact a professional HVAC Service company. To contact us, please dial - 713-682-0888 Ext. 303 - for our Service Department.
I have water coming out of a PVC line outside (normally above a window). What is going on?
The secondary drain line runs from the drain pan (under the evaporator coil, normally in a closet or the attic) to the outside of your home. It usually terminates above a window, so you can see when water is dripping. Water runs through the secondary drain line when the primary drain line is clogged. The primary line can become clogged due to dirt or algae from the evaporator coil. A service technician will "blow out" the primary line, clearing anything that is clogging the line and the water will stop draining out of the secondary line. You should contact a professional HVAC Service company. To contact us, please dial - 713-682-0888 Ext. 303 - for our Service Department.
My A/C system is blowing air inside (not really cold), but no power to the outside unit, is there anything I can do to try and solve the problem?
The solution could be as easy as a tripped breaker. Find your electrical panel that services your outside A/C unit and see if the breaker is tripped. Many times all that is necessary to resetting the breaker. Your HVAC system could have a time delay, so give it 5 – 10 minutes to see if the outside unit comes on. If it does not come on, check the breaker to see if it has tripped again. If the breaker is again tripped, this could be an electrical problem. You would need to call your HVAC contractor or an electrician to diagnose the situation.
Are there different types of filters for my HVAC system?
Yes. There are whole-home filters, also called in-line filters, which are located within the ducted system, normally attached to your furnace or air handler. These filters are can be electronic (some even have UV lights to kill germs) or just provide a much thicker filter (up to 5 inches thick) to capture the unwanted particles. These in-line filters are the most effective way to clean the air within your home.
There are also filters that are installed in the return air opening of your HVAC system (opening could be in a wall or ceiling). There are 2 types of filters available to be placed in the return air opening(s); pleated and non-pleated. Pleated filters have an accordion looking design and work much better than the non-pleated design. The non-pleated design is normally made up of strands of fiberglass and are not very effective, but better than nothing.
If you have an in-line filter in your HVAC system, you should not have a pleated filter in your return air opening(s). This would create too much static pressure within your system and would restrict the airflow needed for your HVAC system to operate correctly. You can place a non-pleated filter in the return air opening(s) if you have an in-line filter.
How often should I replace my filters?
Replacing your filters is a very important step to keeping your air conditioning system operating efficiently. Houston logs the most cooling hours in the United States, meaning air conditioners in Houston run for more hours than any other city in America. The more your system runs, the quicker the filters become dirty. Dirty filters can restrict airflow, which can lead to other issues, including hindering your A/C system from cooling your home adequately. During the months your A/C system is running daily, we suggest you replace your filters every 45 to 60 days. Checking your filters is the best way to find out if you need to replace them. If they are caked with dirt, you should replace them.
How do I check for a dirty evaporator coil?
The easiest way (but not the most effective) is to measure the temperature of the air entering the system at the return air opening and measuring the temperature at the closest register. This is not how a service technician would measure the "temperature drop" or "Delta T", but it is a way to make sure that the air coming out of your supply grills is cooler than the air within your home. A service technician would measure the air before it enters the evaporator coil (normally located in a closet or in the attic) and then measure the temperature of the air after it comes out of the coil. A system that is operating correctly will show a 17-21 F degree difference in temperature. If the house does not cool properly, there could be several reasons why; a dirty evaporator coil could be one reason. Many things cause a system to stop cooling properly, but dirt is the most common problem. If you operate your HVAC system without a filter, the dirt will collect on the coil. To have your evaporator coil inspected and/or cleaned, you should contact a professional HVAC Service company. To contact us, please dial - 713-682-0888 Ext. 303 - for our Service Department.
How do I clean my condenser (outside) coils?
The outside condenser has fins that surround the condenser. These fins need to be kept clear of dirt and debris so that air may pass through them and help your system run as efficiently as possible. You can clean your condenser coil with a water hose, just spray the outside of the condenser with your hose and make sure you can see the fins of the condenser coil. This will ensure air can flow through the unit.
What causes indoor air quality problems?
Indoor air quality problems can result from excessive moisture, radon, combustion gases, and many other contaminants that may accumulate inside. The first strategy to achieving good indoor air quality is to stop these contaminants at their sources. However, not all contaminants can be eliminated at the source, for example excessive moisture in kitchens and bathrooms. Proper ventilation strategies can reduce indoor pollutant levels by bringing in enough outdoor air to dilute emissions from indoor sources and by carrying indoor air pollutants out of the home.
From the EPA website.
What is SEER? EER? HSPF?
Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER), is most commonly used to measure the efficiency of a central air conditioner. The higher the SEER, the more efficient the system. SEER measures how efficiently a cooling system will operate over an entire season.
In technical terms, SEER is a measure of equipment the total cooling of a central air conditioner or heat pump (in Btu) during the normal cooling season as compared to the total electric energy input (in watt-hours) consumed during the same period
Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER) is a measure of how efficiently a cooling system will operate when the outdoor temperature is at a specific level (95oF). The higher the EER, the more efficient the system.
In technical terms, EER is the steady-state rate of heat energy removal (i.e. cooling capacity) by the product measured in Btuh divided by the steady-state rate of energy input to the product measured in watts. This ratio is expressed in Btuh/watt.
Both SEER and EER are included in the ENERGY STAR specification because each rating indicates the energy efficiency of the product under different operating modes. SEER rating more accurately reflects overall system efficiency on a seasonal basis and EER reflects the system’s energy efficiency at peak day operations. Both ratings are important when choosing a product.
Heat Seasonal Performance Factor (HSPF) is the most commonly used measure of a heat pumps heating efficiency. The higher the HSPF, the more efficient the heat pump.
In technical term, HSPF represents the total heating output of a heat pump (including supplementary electric heat) during the normal heating season (in Btu) as compared to the total electricity consumed (in watt-hours) during the same period. HSPF is based on tests performed in accordance with AHRI 210/240 (formerly ARI Standard 210/240)1. From the EPA website.
Where are the biggest air leaks in my home?
Many air leaks are easy to find because they are easy to feel - like those around windows, doors, and through electrical outlets. But hidden air leaks in attics, basements, and around chimneys are often more significant sources of energy loss. Consider addressing these big leaks first because they will have a greater impact on improving your comfort and reducing your utility bills. ENERGY STAR’s Home Sealing Do-It-Yourself Guide has great pictures and suggests places to look for these leaks. Visit ENERGY STAR Home Sealing for more information.
Where are the big air leaks in my attic?
Typically, the biggest attic leaks are found where the walls meet the attic floor, above drop ceilings and overhangs, and behind attic walls. Look for dirty or discolored insulation to find the leaks – this indicates that air is moving through the insulation material. There are lots of other “holes” in the attic ceiling that should also be sealed, such as: recessed “can” lights, plumbing stacks, electrical wires, attic hatches or doors, around chimneys or flues, and duct chases.
Visit ENERGY STAR Home Sealing for more information.
Should I get my air ducts cleaned?
EPA does not recommend that air ducts be cleaned except on an as-needed basis because of the continuing uncertainty about the benefits of duct cleaning under most circumstances. If no one in your household suffers from allergies or unexplained symptoms or illnesses and if, after a visual inspection of the inside of the ducts, you see no indication that your air ducts are contaminated with large deposits of dust or mold, having your air ducts cleaned is probably unnecessary. It is normal for the return registers to get dusty as dust-laden air is pulled through the grate. This does not indicate that your air ducts are contaminated with heavy deposits of dust or debris; the registers can be easily vacuumed or removed and cleaned.
On the other hand, if family members are experiencing unusual or unexplained symptoms or illnesses that you think might be related to your home environment, you should discuss the situation with your doctor. EPA has published Indoor Air Quality: An Introduction for Health Professionals that can be obtained free of charge by contacting IAQ INFO at the number listed in this guide. You may obtain another free EPA booklet from IAQ INFO entitled The Inside Story: A Guide to Indoor Air Quality for guidance on identifying possible indoor air quality problems and ways to prevent or fix them.
You may consider having your air ducts cleaned simply because it seems logical that air ducts will get dirty over time and should occasionally be cleaned. While the debate about the value of periodic duct cleaning continues, no evidence suggests that such cleaning would be detrimental, provided that it is done properly. However, if a service provider fails to follow proper duct cleaning procedures, duct cleaning can cause indoor air problems. For example, an inadequate vacuum collection system can release more dust, dirt, and other contaminants than if you had left the ducts alone. A careless or inadequately trained service provider can damage your ducts or heating and cooling system, possibly increasing your heating and air conditioning costs or forcing you to undertake difficult and costly repairs or replacements.
Learn more about duct cleaning from the EPA.
Does it help to close vents in rooms not being used during the day?
The answer to this question is very site specific and dependent on several factors, such as: heating, ventilating, and air conditioning (HVAC) system design, location of the thermostat, house design, and climate. In the right situation, closing vents and/or doors to certain rooms that are not being used during the day (or even during a whole season) may reduce heating or cooling bills. However, when you close vents/doors you could also throw off the balance of the system, change the way air is distributed, or cause the thermostat to detect temperatures which make the rest of the house uncomfortable.
We recommend that you check with your local heating and cooling contractor when they come for the next system tune-up. Propose to them which doors or vents you want to close and why. They should be able to help you decide whether certain doors or vents can be closed to reduce the amount of space in your home that is being heated or cooled. From the Energy Star website.
Why is the room over my garage colder/hotter than other rooms in the house?
A cold or hot room above the garage (i.e. bonus room) is a common problem. Since the outside walls of the garage are often not insulated, you should make sure the garage ceiling is insulated with blown insulation, like cellulose. Builders sometimes forget to insulate the floor of this type of room. You should also check to ensure the room's ceiling is insulated and that there are no major air leaks. Also, have an HVAC expert check the air flow and ducts to the bonus room to make sure the ducts are connected and delivering air.
You may be wondering if you should just insulate the outside walls of the garage, and bring the whole garage into the "conditioned space" of your home. Depending on how you use your garage, it may not be advisable to do this. If you keep a car, paints, chemicals, or a lawn mower in the garage the fumes from these items could leak into your house if the garage is part of the "conditioned space." In this case, it would be better to insulate the walls and ceiling between the house and garage to seal out any garage fumes.From the Energy Star website.
How do you size the air conditioning for the house?
The HVAC industry sizes tonnages based on a Manual J Heat Load Calculation. A Manual J is an industry accepted program in which specs of the home are entered into the program, including the insulation, window specs, volume of the home, ceiling heights and the direction the house faces, among other information. This allows the HVAC contractor to see the specific needs of the home. The program provides the heating and cooling loads for each part of the home.
